DiscoverYoruba.com is your one-stop for embracing Yoruba culture, entertainment, and history unfolding.
The Yoruba people have an àṣà (culture) that shines through traditional Yoruba clothes and fashion. Yoruba clothing is a way of telling stories, showing who you are, and staying connected to history.
Each piece of clothing has its purpose and meaning, giving a small look into the wearer’s life.
Aso Oke
In this article, we’ll explore the traditional clothing of Yoruba women and men, examine the unique fabrics used, and see how these styles continue to shape modern fashion. Have you ever wondered why certain colors or patterns are so important? There’s always more to Yoruba clothing than meets the eye!
Traditional Clothing for Yoruba Women
Yoruba women’s traditional clothing is known for its beauty and elegance. The clothes are often colourful and intricately designed, showing the creativity and heritage of the Yoruba people. The most important pieces of clothing for Yoruba women include the Iro ati Buba, Gele, Ipele, Komole, and Oleku. Each of these has a special meaning and is worn for different occasions.
Iro ati Buba
Iro: The iro is a large rectangular wrapper tied around the waist. It falls to the feet, creating a flowing and graceful look. The way it is tied can change its appearance, allowing the wearer to adjust it to their style.
Iro ati Buba
Buba: The buba is a loose-fitting blouse worn with the iro. It can have different styles of necklines and sleeves. The buba is comfortable and allows for ease of movement, making it perfect for all kinds of occasions—from everyday wear to grand celebrations. It is often made from luxurious fabrics like lace, silk, Aso-Oke, or Adire.
Gele
The gele is a headgear that is worn by Yoruba women to complete their outfits. It is wrapped around the head in different ways, and it can be styled to look simple or very elaborate. The way a gele is tied can say a lot about a person’s mood or the event they are attending.
Gele
A gele can be made from stiff materials like Aso-Oke, which helps it hold its shape, or from softer fabrics like damask and Ankara. Tying a gele is a skill that is often learned from older women in the family and passed down through generations. It’s a way for women to show their style and creativity.
Ipele and Iborun
Ipele: The ipele also known as shawl is a piece of cloth draped over the shoulder or wrapped around the waist. It is also sometimes held in the hand or on the forearm. It often matches the fabric of the iro or gele. The ipele adds elegance to the outfit and is usually worn during important ceremonies like weddings, naming ceremonies, and religious events.
Ipele and Iborun
Iborun: Similar to the ipele, the iborun is a smaller scarf or stole that is placed over the shoulder. It is often used during more casual events or as a way to stay warm in cooler weather. The Yoruba people believe that these small touches can make an outfit complete.
Komole
The komole is a long, elegant traditional gown popular at Yoruba weddings and big celebrations. It’s often worn by brides or women who want to look their best for special occasions. Made from rich materials like lace and Aso-Oke, the komole is beautifully decorated with detailed embroidery and designs. This gown is all about feeling graceful and looking sophisticated. Yoruba women wear it when they want to stand out and leave a lasting impression.
Komole
Oleku
The oleku style is a playful, modern twist on the traditional iro ati buba. In this look, the iro (wrapper) is shorter, usually reaching the knees, and paired with a fitted buba (top). It became popular in the 1960s and remains a favorite for young women today because it combines traditional roots with a fresh, youthful touch.
Oleku
When the movie O Le Ku came out, it brought the oleku style back into the spotlight. People were drawn to the look because it blended old-school fashion with a modern touch, making it both stylish and culturally meaningful.
O Le Ku is a well-known Nigerian movie from 1997, directed by Tunde Kelani. The film is based on a novel by Professor Akinwunmi Ishola. Set in the 1960s, it follows the story of Ajani, a university student caught in a love triangle with three women: Asake, Tinu, and Lola. The movie goes beyond romance, offering a glimpse into the cultural life of the Yoruba people at that time, including their fashion, social norms, and traditions.
What really stood out in the movie was the fashion, which played a major role in reviving the oleku style. The film’s portrayal of 1960s fashion reintroduced the shorter, stylish version of the traditional iro ati buba, making it trendy for a new generation.
Beads and Accessories
Yoruba women often wear beads and other accessories with their traditional outfits. These beads are not just for decoration; they have cultural meanings and show respect for tradition. Women wear beads on their necks, wrists, and waists, often in colours that match their outfits. They also carry hand fans (abebe), which are decorated with embroidery and beads, adding a touch of elegance to their appearance.
Traditional Clothing for Yoruba Men
Yoruba men’s clothing is known for its majestic and dignified appearance. It often includes multiple layers and special accessories that show respect for the traditions and culture of the Yoruba people. The main pieces of traditional Yoruba clothing for men are the Agbada, Awotele, Sokoto, Fila, and Kaja/Pakaja. These clothes are not only for looking good but also have deep meanings.
Yoruba Clothing for Men
Agbada
The agbada is a large, flowing robe that men often wear during important ceremonies. It is made from fabrics like Aso-Oke, brocade, or damask. The agbada symbolizes wealth, status, and respect, and wearing one shows that a man values his heritage.
Agbada
Types
Agbada Iwole (Casual Agbada): Also known as Sapara or Sulia, this is a lighter and smaller version of the traditional agbada. It is often worn for more casual gatherings and everyday events.
Agbada Amurode (Ceremonial Agbada): This is the more formal version, larger and heavier, with elaborate embroidery. It is worn during weddings, chieftaincy ceremonies, and festivals.
The Four Parts
Awosoke: The large outer robe that is the main piece of the agbada. It flows over the body, creating a grand and commanding presence.
Awotele: The inner shirt worn under the agbada. It can be a buba (a loose shirt with sleeves) or a danshiki (a sleeveless top).
Sokoto: The trousers that are worn with the agbada. The Yoruba people have different styles of sokoto, such as the close-fitting, ankle-length, and narrow-bottomed piece sooro and the loose wide-legged kembe. The trousers are tied at the waist with a drawstring.
Fila: A traditional cap that completes the agbada outfit. Different types of fila include Abeti Aja (with flaps that resemble dog ears) and Gobi (a cap with a drooping side). The fila is a symbol of wisdom and respect.
Pakaja/Kaja
The kaja or pakaja is a toga-like garment that is draped over one shoulder. It is often worn by older men or chiefs during ceremonies. The pakaja style is simple yet elegant, showing respect for Yoruba traditions. It is a sign of wisdom and authority in the community.
Pakaja/Kaja
Dandogo
The Dandogo is a traditional flowing robe often worn by Yoruba chiefs and elders, known for its wide, loose fit and intricate embroidery. It’s a standout piece that represents status, power, and heritage. Traditionally, it’s a garment reserved for the wealthy and those in high positions, symbolizing their elevated social standing.
Dandogo
There’s a Yoruba proverb that says dàńdógó kọjá ẹ̀wù àbínúdá, which translates to “The Dandogo garment surpasses what can be made on the spur of anger.” This saying reflects the special significance of the Dandogo—it’s not something that can be made quickly or in haste. It needs time, care, and skill, which shows just how important and respected it is in Yoruba culture.
Dansiki
The Dansiki is a shorter, more casual tunic that is often paired with trousers. It’s known for its comfortable fit and stylish patterns, making it a versatile choice for both formal and informal occasions.
Dansiki
Yoruba Traditional Fabrics
Yoruba clothing is crafted from both locally made fabrics and imported materials that have become integral to Yoruba culture. The Yoruba people are known for their beautiful fabrics, made using traditional methods passed down through generations. These fabrics are used for everyday clothing as well as special ceremonial outfits. Some of the most significant fabrics include Aso-Oke, Adire, Ankara, and Aran. Common fabrics used for making Yoruba clothing for women include:
Aso-Oke
Aso-Oke is a handwoven cloth that is very important in Yoruba culture. It is often worn during weddings, chieftaincy titles, and festivals. Aso-Oke is prominent in Iseyin, a city in Oyo, but is popular all over Yorubaland. It is also known for its durability and beautiful patterns, which make it perfect for creating garments that last a lifetime.
Aso-Oke
Types
Etu: A deep blue fabric with fine stripes, symbolizing peace and calmness. It is often worn during important ceremonies.
Sanyan: A soft, tan-coloured fabric made from wild silk. It represents wealth and is often worn by chiefs and royalty.
Alaari: A bright red or purple fabric that signifies power, energy, and celebration.
Weaving Process: Aso-Oke is woven on traditional looms, using techniques that have been used for centuries. The weaving process requires skill and patience, and the result is a fabric that is both strong and beautiful.
Adire
Adire is a tie-dye fabric that is known for its vibrant colours and unique patterns. It is made by applying wax or starch to parts of the cloth before dyeing, creating beautiful designs.
Adire
Types
Adire Eleko: Made by painting designs with cassava paste before dyeing, creating intricate patterns.
Adire Oniko: Made by tying the fabric with raffia before dyeing, producing beautiful circular patterns.
Adire Alabere: Created by stitching designs into the fabric before dyeing.
Cultural Role: Adire is worn for both everyday use and special events. It is appreciated for its artistic value and is often used to make blouses, dresses, and shirts.
Ankara
Ankara, also known as African wax print, was originally brought to West Africa by Dutch traders. The Yoruba people quickly embraced it, adding unique designs and patterns. It is now a symbol of African pride and is used to create a wide range of Yoruba clothing.
Ankara
Ankara is versatile and is used to make both traditional outfits like iro ati buba and modern styles like jackets, skirts, and accessories. It is known for its bright colours and bold patterns.
Aran
Aran is a luxurious velvet fabric that is often used for special occasions. It is soft to the touch and features intricate embroidery, making it a favourite for weddings and important ceremonies. It is considered a fabric of royalty and high status.
Seghosen
Seghosen is a type of traditional Yoruba clothing from the Owo Kingdom, made from cotton fabric dyed with natural or synthetic dyes. The fabric is then adorned with intricate patterns and motifs, which are woven, embroidered, or appliquéd.
Jawu
Jawu is a traditional Yoruba clothing featuring stylistic cutouts, giving it a unique design. It is often used as part of Yoruba Komole attire, particularly for the bust.
Yoruba Komole Attire with Jawu
Aso Olona
Aso Olona, meaning “cloth with patterns” in Yoruba, is a fabric woven with symbols and patterns that hold cultural and spiritual significance, particularly among the Ijebu subgroup. It is made from hand-spun white and indigo cotton, decorated with designs depicting water spirits, animals, plants, and other motifs.
Aso Olona is closely associated with the Ogboni/Oshugbo society, a prestigious group of elders and leaders in Yoruba society. This cloth is worn by chiefs, priests, and society members during Yoruba festivals and ceremonies, even rituals. It is considered a symbol of authority and prestige, and when worn as a shawl over the shoulder, it is called Itagbe.
Eya / Lace
Lace is a delicate fabric made from yarn or thread, looped, twisted, or knotted to form intricate patterns. It can be made from various materials like cotton, silk, nylon, or polyester, and comes in styles such as guipure or sequin.
Lace
Brocade and Damask
These fabrics feature complex patterns woven directly into them, often using materials like cotton, silk, wool, or synthetic fibers. Brocade and Damask come in a range of colors and textures, from shiny to matte, and from smooth to rough.
Fabrics No Longer in Use
Kijipa: Once widely used by regular people and craftsmen, Kijipa was a rough fabric made from raw, hand-spun cotton and woven on indigenous narrow and wide looms. Although it is no longer in use today, it is sometimes featured in Yoruba historical movies.
Ibante/Bante: An old fabric traditionally used by Yoruba farmers.
Elegheghe: This was a high-quality Yoruba clothing from the Owo Kingdom, often presented as gifts to important visitors. It came in two prominent types: Elegheghe Dudu (black) and Elegheghe Pupa (red).
Fashion Trends: Mixing Yoruba Traditional Clothing with Modern Styles
Yoruba fashion has influenced styles beyond Africa. Today, designers blend traditional Yoruba elements with modern designs to create clothes that appeal to both young and old.
Aso-Oke
Designers use Aso-Oke to make modern dresses, jackets, and even accessories like bags and shoes. This makes the fabric more accessible while keeping its traditional charm.
Lighter versions of Aso-Oke are now being made, making it comfortable for everyday wear while still maintaining its cultural significance.
Ankara
Ankara has become popular around the world, used in fashion shows and by international designers. Its colourful prints add a touch of African culture to global fashion. Ankara is used for both formal and casual wear, from traditional iro ati buba to trendy tops and trousers.
The Role of Accessories in Yoruba Fashion
Accessories are an essential part of Yoruba traditional clothing, adding the finishing touch to each outfit. Here are some of the most common accessories:
Beaded Jewelry
Beads, known as ileke, are worn as necklaces, bracelets, and anklets. They are often made in colours that match the outfit and are a sign of beauty and respect.
Necklaces
Hand Fans (Abebe)
Hand fans, called abebe, are often decorated with beads and embroidery. They are used during hot weather to keep cool and add an elegant touch to the outfit, especially during weddings and celebrations.
Abebe
Walking Sticks and Canes
Older men and chiefs often carry walking sticks or canes, which are beautifully carved and decorated. These sticks symbolize wisdom, authority, and respect.
Coral Beaded Authority Walking Stick
Top Yoruba Designers Shaping the Fashion Industry
The Yoruba fashion industry is filled with incredibly talented designers, stylists, and influencers who have made a significant mark on fashion in Nigeria and beyond. These individuals have kept traditional styles alive while adding a modern twist, making Yoruba clothing more appealing to contemporary audiences. Let’s take a closer look at some of the standout names in the Yoruba traditional clothing industry:
1. Deola Sagoe
Deola Sagoe, from Ondo State, is a celebrated fashion designer known for her luxurious and innovative use of traditional Yoruba fabrics. She has gained international recognition for modernising Aso-Oke, transforming it into high-fashion garments that blend traditional craftsmanship with modern designs.
Deola Sagoe
Her “Komole” series, which features intricately designed bridal and regal outfits, has redefined luxury bridal wear in Nigeria. These stunning creations are highly sought after for weddings and traditional ceremonies, earning her locally and internationally accolades. Deola’s work has even graced prestigious runways like New York Fashion Week, establishing her as a true global ambassador of Yoruba fashion.
2. Mai Atafo
Mai Atafo, born in Ile-Ife, Osun State, is another influential name in Yoruba fashion, particularly known for his bridal collections. Mai has mastered fabrics like Aso-Oke and creates stunning designs, including modern takes on iro ati buba, aso-ebi, and agbada for grooms.
Mai Atafo
His brand, ATAFO, is celebrated for its luxurious craftsmanship, offering bridal, menswear, and womenswear that blend tradition with modern sophistication. Celebrities and public figures often turn to Mai for his bespoke pieces, which perfectly capture Yoruba heritage while appealing to a global audience.
3. Femi Olayebi
Femi Olayebi, a fashion entrepreneur from Ibadan, is the creative mind behind FemiHandbags. Known for her luxury handbags, Femi skilfully incorporates traditional Yoruba fabrics like Aso-Oke and Ankara into her designs.
Femi Olayebi
She has created products that resonate locally and internationally by blending these textiles with modern accessories. Her collections, which include handbags, clutches, and accessories, are a popular choice at weddings and cultural events, adding a modern yet culturally rich touch to Yoruba attire.
4. Toyin Lawani (Tiannah’s Empire)
Toyin Lawani is a bold and versatile stylist, designer, and entrepreneur from Ekiti State. She is known for her avant-garde approach to fashion, creatively fusing Yoruba traditions with contemporary elements.
Toyin Lawani
Through her brand, Tiannah’s Empire, Toyin has designed striking agbada outfits for women, modern iro ati buba, and dramatic gele styles. Her daring and edgy designs have caught the eye of fashion-forward celebrities, making her a trendsetter in the Yoruba fashion scene.
5. Folake Coker
Folake Coker, born in Lagos in 1974, is the founder and creative director of Tiffany Amber, a brand known for blending African heritage with global fashion trends. Originally trained as a lawyer, Folake’s passion for fashion led her to pursue a career in design. Her work frequently incorporates traditional Yoruba fabrics like Aso-Oke and Ankara, giving them a luxurious and modern twist.
Folake Coker
Since founding Tiffany Amber in 1998, she has become one of Africa’s foremost fashion designers, showcasing her designs internationally, including at New York Fashion Week. Folake is also a strong advocate for empowering African women through fashion, using her platform to inspire and uplift.
References
The Agbada! – Traditional Male Attire – Welcome To Yorùbá Lessons
